Dedicated to the modern bride, Gaurang Shah’s “Chandbali” collection was a splendid line of regal ethnic wear at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014.
To the strains of lilting music by Ashok Gurjale, the show which was a rainbow of colours and styles created a feast for the eyes.
Combining the patterns of the antique odhnas from the Akbarnama with khadi, Gaurang ensured that the outfits had all the richness, beauty and auspicious touches of bridal finery. Motifs like gow-mata, chand-suraj, Buddha-pada were combined with Chandbali like embroidery. The colours caused a riot on the ramp as garments in surkh red, gulabi pink, zard yellow, narangi orange, sabz green were designed into majestic styles.
Reviving the jama, achkans, angarkha, sadri, shaluka, floor length kalidaar and lehenga with assi kalis, Gaurang ensured that the 21st century bride had ample options. Bringing to centre stage the ancient Jamdani weaving technique, Gaurang’s “Chandbali” collection was poetry in fabric form as he presented the odhna weaves on organza while the embroidery on khadi recreated the antique zardosi style.
To end the show Gaurang had his favourite muse, the beautiful, elegant, dimpled Kirron Kher in a shocking pink brocade sari that glided down the ramp to thunderous applause.
When the bride wants to ensure that she is the cynosure of all eyes on the most important day of her life then Gaurang Shah’s “Chandbali” collection will create that magic.
Fascinated by nature and all things natural, Purvi Doshi’s collection called “Renaissance” created from the humble basic pure cotton fabric was a memorable presentation at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014.
Red, grey, khaki, deep green, ecru and indigo were combined with cultures and styles of Europe and Gujarat from 1400-1600 centuries and were the inspirations of the garments.
Playing with silhouettes, Purvi dreamt up long gowns, blends of different sleeve designs, plunging low-back interest but added gathers and pleats to present unconventional garments. Choosing natural dyes from plants, animals and shells, Purvi’s collection also sent out a strong message to preserve the environment with sustainable fashion through embroidery featuring flora and fauna.
The show opened with two majestic full circle floor length gowns with a marked Lambadi touch. Soon flared minis, long sleeved collared kurtas, waisted black dress with print/embellishment and kedia inspired tops swirled down the catwalk.
Boleros with cut-out sleeves and kurtas with high slit sleeves, printed palazzos and stylish covers completed the collection. Purvi ended the show with multiple colour blocked diaphanous gowns that were luxurious in their style and design.
‘Be fashionable but respect the earth’ declared Purvi Doshi with her “Renaissance” collection.
Inspired by the beauty of Pondicherry Shruti Sancheti’s “Le Pondi” collection for Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 had all the gentle tranquil influences of the city. Merging the grandeur of French and European influences with Tamilian sensibilities; the collection was a fashionable mix of intricately woven Temple weaves with a trendy twist given to the pastel colour borders. Expertly woven with a 150 thread count, the base fabric was teamed with silk, natural calico cotton, lace and cotton silk.
Blossoms appeared artistically on the fabrics in the form of screen and block prints to add a European-Boho ambience to the collection. Working around romantic silhouettes that swirled down the ramp; Shruti presented midis, maxis, voluminous jumpsuits, asymmetrical dresses and jackets with marked French influence.
Indian silhouettes were added as kurtas, tunics and saris brought in the oriental flavour on the catwalk. Colours created a riot of hues as aqua, coral, canary, moss and mint in green shades and powder blue, yellow, lilac; bubble gum pink brought a refreshing feel on the catwalk.
Detailing was in the form of long/short stitches, cutwork, French knots and cross stitch. Swallow tail tops, lace yokes for the back, sleeves and as edging for hemlines, interesting apron-like layers over maxis and tiny floral cutwork bolero gave the collection the finishing touch. Saris too were treated with prints or lace to match the theme of the show.
The show witnessed the who’s who of the town including: Sangita Jindal, Rashmi Thackeray, Shaina NC Urvashi Lottakiya, VJ Andy and Kim Sharma, applauding for Shruti.
Ideal for the globetrotting woman, who adores the crafts, weaves and textures of India, Shruti Sancheti’s “Le Pondi” collection had marked international appeal.
For her debut appearance Anavila Sindu Misra took the audience at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 on an exotic fashionable journey with her collection called “Secret Life of the Forest”. Keeping hand-woven, linen as the basic fabric choice, Anavila used Jamdani weaves, hand batik, Sujani, Khatwa and hand block printing to add glamour to the saris.
Anavila’s brand is known for its hand woven linens and she was the pioneer who created the first hand-woven hundred percent linen saris. Weaving in the beauty of the forest, there were reindeers, wild berries, blossoms, dragon flies and assorted foliage that appeared as motifs on the innovatively designed saris. Burnt rose borders and hand batik, along with animal patchwork in floral English prints and hand applied floral stems gave the saris a distinct fashion style statement.
The accompanying blouses had detailing like Thorn birds or deer in Khatwa besides a printed option to match the saris.
The colour story was as natural with sober ecru, burnt rose, black, indigo, white, sap green and ochre that added to the earthy beauty of the creations. With saris in natural ecru, the beauty of the Tribal art was visible on the collection.
Mention must be made of the very innovative headbands to match each entry that completed the natural story.
Working with various artisans and craftsmen from Jharkhand, Anavila Sindu Misra’s very feminine line of saris was a perfect offering for the sultry days that will heat up the coming months.
11.11 CellDSGN, the brain child of Shani Himanshu and Smita Singh Rathore along with artist and designer Mia Morikawa, is a well-known label that has dressed many personalities. Presenting Indian crafts at their best, the label used hand-spun and woven fabrics with vegetable dyes and stitching details for each garment. The collection called “The Khadi Way / Destination Equilibrium -2014” was modelled by seventeen different professionals proving that fashion is not just for the ramp.
Created in the villages of Gujarat and West Bengal, it was Indian hand work luxury which can be proudly declared as hundred per cent hand made in India. The designers ensured that the beauty of the fabrics and the embellishments were at the centre of attraction for every creation along with the distinct style directions.
Featuring a line of jackets, shirts and trousers the silhouettes were basic and relaxed, based on geometric shapes. Resist dyeing techniques of bandhani, clamp dyeing and marbeling was added to give variety to the collection.
The fabric base started with crêpe, cotton satin and habutai silks followed by khadi denim/cotton, kala cotton/Jamdani and silks ranged from cotton, crepe, ari silk and organza.
The ensembles had that fabulous rustic charm that was totally irresistible and will appeal to fashionistas who are loyal to the textiles and crafts of the country.
The “Tilla” label by Aratrik Dev Varman displayed some exquisite creations at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014. Designed from hand-woven Indian fabrics like khadi silk and Chanderi the designer added block prints, roghan work and badla embellishments to add minute glitter to the creations. Inspired by the mogra flower, the clothes were in varied hues that were layered in white and ecru and accessorised with cotton flower buds.
Opening with an ecru crinkle asymmetric midi, the show continued with ink crushed skirt blouse, white tube, a simple fuchsia dress with a beige cover and rose coloured tiered crinkled cape dress. The drawstring grey mini and the black/white print asymmetric cape with a white dress under it were easy on the eye and body, ideal for sizzling hot summers.
Each piece was a vision of beauty on the models as they glided down the ramp. Revealing perfect classic shapes with minute detailing, the collection was ideal for jet setting women as it revealed the perfect blend of layers, textures and design sensibilities.
Aratrik Dev Varman’s ‘Tilla’ label had style and comfort as the basis of the collection and its understated luxury will appeal to women who want to make the maximum impact with minimum effort.
Sayantan Sarkar showcased a high-end line of evening wear christened ‘A Motley Love’ at Jabong Stage during Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014.
The designer stuck to strong colours such as neon kissed pink, grey streaked purple, seductive black, Popsicle orange and fading aqua for a fresh appeal to the silhouettes which blended ethnic influences with international elegance.
Asymmetrical cuts helped balance out the bold hues and added a whimsical touch to each piece. Kurti-dresses, tunics, jackets, tops and pants were the elegantly draped in fabrics like crepe, organza and sheer material and sported several prints both solid as well as see-through in the form of flowers and geometric designs.
The range also catered to the urban man and offered casual-chic blazers, pants, shirts and vests.
The showstopper was well known Bengali actress, Paoli Dam who wore a fabulous flamboyant dress in white and orange which sported splatters of several colours.
Fun, flirty and fresh, Sayantan Sarkar’s collection ‘A Motley Love’ is sure to have any woman swooning, wanting more.
Sonam and Paras Modi under their label ‘SVA’ showcased a fabulous, rich, rustic-chic collection titled ‘Kasi’ at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014.
The range inspired by India’s cultural heritage comprised saris, tunics, blouses, cropped tops, skirts and jumpsuits fused together with western silhouettes for an edgy, soulful appeal.
Summer hues of tangerine, light yellow, bright beige, blood red, dusky gold and blinding white dominated the colour palette, reminiscent of diverse Indian spices in rich natural fabrics.
Sticking to fabric embellishments, the designers used colour accents, panels, pleats and material beads to contour each piece and further used sheer fabrics along with clean cut-outs at the back to add a sensual touch.
A piece that stood out was a translucent sari over a jumpsuit that is perfect for a woman who is not shy of experimenting.
The showstopper, Bollywood star pretty and petit Amrita Rao graced the runway in a gorgeous shimmering dress with see-through material used for gathers at the bottom.
Sultry and sophisticated the collection ‘Kasi’ from the ‘SVA’ label by Sonam Modi and Paras Modi is sure to leave the urban Indian diva’s wardrobe well stocked.
The Development Commissioner of Handlooms, The Ministry of Textiles Government of India in association with Clothing Manufacturers Association of India presented the rich Indian weaves by Anita Dongre. This initiative for Promotion of Handlooms in Modern Retail was thanks to Smt. Zohra Chatterji, IAS Secretary (Textiles).
Known for her many experiments with textiles, Anita Dongre ended Day Three at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 with her utterly breathtaking pastel collection called “Varanasi Weaves” which was a tribute to the traditional Indian fabrics. Inspired by the hand-woven cottons of Varanasi, Anita’s show was a visual treat of prêt separates for textile and fashion lovers.
Giant white floral cut-outs framed the archway to the ramp. Opening the display with the melodious Geetu Hinduja who regaled the audience with foot tapping folk tunes throughout the show, the evening was set for some great fashion.
The gorgeous Dia Mirza glided down the catwalk in an ethereal self designed lemon lehenga and long sleeved blouse followed by models wearing waisted full-sleeved dress and maxi. Soon there were pretty pastel sections that offered a mélange of creations.
Prét separates with hints of couture touches had a boho luxe look. The beauty of the Varanasi weaves was perfectly highlighted in the pencil skirts, stately column gowns and then gradually moved to floor skimming skirts and cropped tops, worn with flared pants.
Colours were vibrant and rich as old rose, powder blue, buttercup yellow were teamed with nude, dull gold and of course pure white.
Embroidery was tonal with beadwork and gentle shimmer highlighting the ensembles. Self designed fabrics in a variety of combinations were turned into pleated maxi skirt, plunge neck zigzag weave gowns, swallow tail maxis, embellished boleros and off- shoulder blouses. A hint of transparency was evident in gowns with mini inners or sheer lean kurtas over layered flowing pants and embroidered blouses matched with palazzos. Long sleeved tube gowns, paper bag skirts with tailored shirts and draped white/blue shaded skirt were part of the beauties on the runway. Silhouettes moved from straight and lean to flares with sensuous volumes.
Men’s wear was stylishly perfect with frayed-edged or unstructured jackets in white linen, waistcoats, sheer shirts, kurtas, bundgalas, dhotis and slim trousers.
Weaving a multi-faceted story of contemporary fashion laced with traditional weaves, Anita Dongre’s “Varanasi Weaves” presented by the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of Textiles Government of India in association with Clothing Manufacturers Association of India was a fascinating summer offering to women and men who value timeless fast forward fashion.